Diamonds Across the Rainbow

Diamonds aren't just colorless

While often referred to as white, classic diamonds are actually colorless. We will talk about that below. But the biggest misunderstanding about diamonds is that they only come in one color! Diamonds come in every color of the rainbow. They are called fancy color diamonds, which does not mean they are snobby, that is just the term to describe color. For example a fancy yellow diamond simply means the stone meets all the requirements to be classified as truly yellow, NOT colorless with a strong yellow tint.


Please note that this article is referring to natural, earth-mined diamonds only. 


The classic: colorless diamonds


When we speak about diamond, that's usually what we all think - a colorless hall of mirrors full of sparkle and magic. Colorless stones are graded using the GIA's 4Cs and are the most common type of diamond. They are a favorite for engagement rings and rightfully so: thanks to the neutral color of the stone, it is unlikely to ever go out of fashion, and the hardness of diamond makes it suitable for daily wear.


At Meluzza we have a few pieces featuring colorless diamonds, such as the North Star Earrings or the Constellation Studs.


Not colorless: white diamonds



Colorless diamonds (graded on a color scale D-Z) are not white. White diamonds are fancy color diamonds (remember, fancy is used for all colors other than colorless) that have a milky look to them. They are opalescent and can sometimes resemble moonstone. Due to their milkiness they aren't as shiny as colorless diamonds but because they aren't very desirable, they can be an affordable and unique alternative!


See below for a picture of a white diamond, curtesy of GIA.

Making inclusions cool: salt and pepper diamonds


Heavily included diamonds used not to be desirable in the jewelry industry until they got a rebrand! Since those included diamonds hit the market as salt and pepper, they have quickly become a fan favorite and are now even used in engagement rings. The black "pepper" are simply heavy, eye visible inclusions in the diamond.


Be aware that those diamonds might have less sparkle compared to clear ones. The heavy inclusions can also make them sightly less durable and more sensitive to impact. But we love a sustainable solution and think the cheeky freckled gems truly have character.


For the goth in you: black diamonds


Black diamonds are interesting because they lack the one thing that makes diamonds special: sparkle. While they are more opaque, their metallic luster has found many fans over the years. Their color is due to the presence of a lot of small, dark colored inclusions. They are the next step after a salt and pepper diamond: when there are so many inclusions that the stone simply appears black.


If black is your vibe, a black diamond could be a great choice... but if you love sparkle, you may be better off with another stone.


From worthless to desirable: brown diamonds


Brown diamonds used to be irrelevant for the jewelry industry and were considered for industrial purposes only, until they too got a makeover. Instead of brown diamonds, they were labeled as chocolate, cognac, or even champagne diamonds and the sales exploded. Brown diamonds owe their color to a process called plastic deformation.


While they are rare compared to colorless diamonds, they aren't yet as desirable as other fancy color diamonds, making them a great alternative for those who want something unique but somewhat affordable.


The most common of the rare: yellow diamonds


Of course yellow diamonds are less common than colorless stones but they are also far more common than other fancy color diamonds, making them a stone that is more accessible yet relatively rare.


Their mesmerizing deep yellow color is due to presence of nitrogen. The intensity of color depends on how much nitrogen is in the stone but there are ways to maximize color: a good cut can help bring out more color and using a gold setting will likely make a yellow diamond pop more.


If you are looking to add a yellow diamond piece to your collection, our You Are My Sunshine rings and pendant can be a good start.


A true rarity: blue diamonds



Blue is truly rare and you will have to open you pockets pretty wide to own a natural blue diamond. The color is a result of boron impurities or radiation exposure. Most blue diamonds have a hint of gray and are almost never as blue as sapphires.


If you want to see an exquisite blue diamond, all you need to do is visit the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, where the Hope Diamond is on display... that is of course if you aren't afraid of the diamond's curse! If you can't make the trip, here is a picture from the Smithsonian's website:

Rarely seen: green diamonds


Green diamonds were made popular by Jennifer Lopez but getting one for yourself might not be easy. Green diamonds get their color from radiation when diamond deposits lie near radioactive rocks (but no, they aren't radioactive).


The green of a diamond is not like that of emerald. It usually has a grayish or brownish tint and most green diamonds are only truly green on the surface, with the color rarely present in the entire stone. This is why many fancy color diamonds have unique cuts - only by cutting the stones in a certain way can most of the color be preserved and enhanced.

Almost out of reach: pink diamonds


Pink is rare, so rare in fact that the yearly yield of pink diamonds weighing over half a carat could fit in the palm of your hand! Adding to the drama, the main source of pink diamonds, the Argyle Mine in Australia, has closed in 2020! This will make pink even more unattainable as the circulating stones is all we have until further notice. 


The color is a result of plastic deformation, just like in brown diamonds. Smaller pink diamonds are somewhat easier to find, which means you could use them as accent stones. That is, if you can pay for the steep prices per carat.


Unheard of: purple diamonds


Purple diamonds are so rare, you barely ever hear about them. But they do exist and command some of the highest prices per carat. The color is a result of high levels of hydrogen inside the diamonds.


Only a few of these stones have ever been seen, so if you come across one, consider yourself extremely lucky. Sadly the few that had made an appearance at auctions have disappeared into the darkness of private collections.


Impossible to find: orange diamonds


A truly fancy orange natural diamond is among the rarest stones in existence, so rare that even stones below a carat are extremely valuable. The GIA estimates that orange diamonds make up about 0.05% of all-natural fancy color diamonds.


The orange color is a result of nitrogen impurities, just like yellow diamonds. In fact, there can be a thin line between a yellow and orange diamond, but the difference in value is millions of dollars. What sets yellow and orange apart is how they absorb light. Getting the exact conditions for the stone to appear orange is a one-in-a-million chance, which is why you don't see them often.


The rarest of them all: red diamonds



Red diamonds are so rare that no color scale exists for them: while all other fancy color gemstones are graded on a scale from faint to vivid fancy color, red diamonds are either red or not. Only five red diamonds have been documented - that's pretty rare!


Red diamonds also owe their color to defects in their atomic structure, proving once more that imperfections make you unique. They were mined at the Argyle Mine, making it unlikely to unearth more red diamonds anytime soon as the mine has ceased operations.


A red diamond is priceless and most of us are unlikely to ever own one. But you can visit the Smithsonian and have a look at the breathtaking DeYoung Red Diamond (pictured below), a stunning 5 carat red diamond, that luckily did not disappear into the darkness of a private collection.

Treated diamonds


Keep in mind that most colors can be achieved by many kinds of treatments. So if you ever come across a blue or red natural diamond that is quite affordable, make sure to inquire about treatments and demand a GIA report. While enhanced and treated diamonds aren't necessarily bad, they have a different (lower) value compared to natural fancy color diamonds. It is important that you know what you are spending your money on!




Disclaimer on lab grown diamonds: at Meluzza we do not sell any stones that are man-made, including lab grown diamonds. Our creations are a celebration of nature's beauty and we cherish sustainably sourced stones that provide a livelihood for mining communities across the globe. We trust that all the beauty we need can be created by Mother Nature, and it shouldn't be necessary to build mega factories to replicate what can be found inside the earth. Lab grown diamonds are not treasures, they are nearly worthless and promote mindless overconsumption, values that we at Meluzza want to separate ourselves from.

By Paula Doebrich March 11, 2025
Discover the many varieties of garnets.
By Paula Doebrich November 3, 2024
The coveted icy blue gem
By Paula Doebrich October 3, 2024
What is your birthstone?
More Posts
Share by: